Inside the 2025 New York City Jewelry & Watch Show
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anhattan’s Metropolitan Pavilion was bathed in an aura of timeless glamour as New York’s premier jewelry fair marked its 10th anniversary this fall. Nestled in Chelsea’s loft-like halls, velvet-lined booths and spotlighted vitrines showcased a curated selection of antique, vintage and contemporary treasures – just as the show’s organizers intended. This Jubilee edition introduced “an all-new curated designer section” spotlighting rising talent alongside veteran exhibitors. For four days (Oct 23–26, 2025), collectors and tastemakers wandered between booths where history, craftsmanship and modern design intersect. The effect was an industrial-meets-elegant setting – rough-hewn wood and brick softened by fine art–gallery lighting – that accentuated each glittering display.
Fresh Faces on the Floor
In celebration of the milestone, organizers expanded the roster and added exciting new elements. A dedicated Designers Gallery invited emerging names like Alla Rocklin, Sean Hill and Dana Bronfman to exhibit alongside the stalwarts. Here, studio artists debuted modern pieces that dialogued with the antiques in the room. Throughout the hall, visitors could admire both Victorian brooches and minimalist new pendants. Curated displays and dramatic lighting made each booth feel as exclusive as a couture salon; amid this tasteful, fashion-forward ambiance, even the floorplan whispered luxury.
Showstopping Highlights
At Jack Weir & Sons, Beverly Hills, the star attraction was a monumental vintage Hammerman Brothers pendant. This necklace features a GIA-certified 135.69-carat Santa Maria aquamarine – a rare intensely blue gem – framed by vibrant pink tourmalines and over 6 carats of pave diamonds on an 18k yellow-gold chain. With its deep Caribbean-blue center and rich golden setting, the piece was a bold statement of opulence and artistry.
Nearby, Camilla Dietz Bergeron’s booth offered a different kind of marvel: a Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Secret watch pendant. Fashioned in 18k rose gold, this quatrefoil pendant flips open via a beaded hinge to reveal a mother-of-pearl watch dial ringed with brilliant diamonds. On its 35-inch chain, the pendant swings like a living talisman – its smooth, high-polish surface catching the light until one reveals the diamond-bordered face underneath. The elegant secrecy of the design – a delicate rose-gold cover over the gemmed dial – exemplifies the blend of fine watchmaking and haute jewelry savoir-faire on display at the show. As CDB Ltd describes it, the piece’s “beaded edge rose gold quatrefoil cover pivots to reveal the mother of pearl dial… within a diamond-set surround”, an exquisite interplay of geometry and whimsy that turned heads among the New York crowd.
Jewels of My Soul (Los Angeles) wowed onlookers with a ring that needs no image: an immense cushion-cut Fancy Intense Yellow diamond exceeding 25 carats, set in platinum. The gem’s electric canary hue blazed like liquid light under the pavilion’s LEDs. This one-of-a-kind stone – GIA-certified, as noted in the show’s press materials – embodied pure extravagance. On a sleek palladium band it epitomized the kind of dramatic, high-impact style that collectors came to the show to find.
Finally, Philadelphia’s Wilson’s Estate Jewelry presented a truly poetic antique: an Art Nouveau swan pendant, enameled in translucent plique-à-jour. The bell-shaped 14k gold pendant depicts a swan gliding on a lily-pad pond, its scene rendered in delicate blue, green, cream and pink enamels. Tiny rose-cut diamonds set the cattail blossoms and a scattering of round rubies add floral accents – each detail painstakingly rendered with layer upon layer of enamel and gold wire. In person, the pendant looked like a miniature stained-glass painting that one could wear. This lyrical creation was vintage 1905 but felt utterly avant-garde – a perfect example of how antique craftsmanship and high fashion sensibility merge at the show.
Craft, Culture and Cachet
Above all, the 10th NYC Jewelry & Watch Show reaffirmed that fine jewels speak a language of prestige and identity. The diversity on the floor – from century-old objects d’art to new avant-garde designs. In high society circles, these extraordinary pieces are more than accessories. At the Metropolitan Pavilion, every emerald’s depth and every art-glass sheen was a statement to the collector’s eye. Patrons wearing these show finds become living ambassadors of taste and power, their chosen gems broadcasting membership in an exclusive cultural echelon. In short, the fair made clear that for the global elite, fashion and high jewelry continue to define one’s stature: each brooch or watch isn’t merely decoration, but a potent symbol of heritage and success.
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