First Light of the Season: Dubai Fashion Week SS26
Courtesy of Fadi Al Shami
Courtesy of Sofia Hartmann
Courtesy of Historyhd
Courtesy of Mick De Paola
Courtesy of the artist (c) VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2025. Photography by Jens Ziehe.
Courtesy of Yasamine June
Courtesy of Rawisara Prachaksubhanit
Courtesy of Mariia Dred for Berlin Fashion Week
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Courtesy of Antonia Tewes
Courtesy of Antonia Tewes
Courtesy of Carlo Bazzo
Courtesy of Artem Zakharov
Courtesy of James Cochrane / Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26
Courtesy of Fashion Week Studio
Courtesy of Burak Goraler / AFW
Courtesy of Antonia Tewes
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Courtesy of Bruno Cordioli / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Courtesy of Dubai Fashion Week / Ruzaini Official
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Courtesy of Campione d’Italia’s Classic Circuit
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potlights dance across an open-air runway as the sun sets behind the futuristic skyline. A hush falls over the front row – a mix of abaya-clad royals, international editors, and couture clients – all poised for the spectacle to begin. In that charged moment, Dubai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 opened not just a new season, but a new chapter in the style narrative of the UAE.
First on the Global Stage at d3
In early September 2025, Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) returned to its home at Dubai Design District (d3) for a six-day showcase that officially kicked off the global Spring/Summer 2026 fashion season ahead of New York, London, Milan, and Paris. The city’s official fashion week – co-founded by d3 and the Arab Fashion Council – has swiftly transformed from a regional upstart into a rising global fashion hub, now confidently standing alongside the traditional “Big Four”. With more than 30 runway shows over the week, DFW drew a cosmopolitan mix of over 30 standout designers from France, Italy, India, Lebanon, Libya, the UAE, the UK, Germany, the Netherlands, Croatia, and beyond. Each brought their own lens on culture, sustainability, and innovation to the Dubai runways, infusing the desert fashion capital with an eclectic energy.
Sustainability, Innovation & Global Craftsmanship
One of the defining themes of DFW SS26 was a forward-looking fusion of technology and tradition. Many collections championed sustainable materials, ethical design practices, and cutting-edge innovation alongside age-old craftsmanship. DFW’s strategic media partner, Meta, amplified these conversations through Threads Talks V4.0, a thought-leadership series that unfolded amid the shows. In its fourth edition, Threads Talks convened influential voices – from global brand CEOs to tech innovators – to discuss topics like shifting consumer behavior, the rise of AI in fashion, and new sustainability models. These expert-led panels underscored that Dubai is not just hosting runway shows, but also actively shaping the dialogue on fashion’s future. The very presence of such high-profile discussions, presented in partnership with a tech giant, signaled the emirate’s intent to lead on innovation and creativity in the industry.
On the runways, innovation met heritage in spectacular ways. Parisian provocateur Victor Weinsanto sent a flamboyant, club-kid couture collection down the Dubai runway, while British-Iraqi designer Tara Babylon injected London edge into the lineup – both exemplifying the event’s edgy, cosmopolitan spirit.
In contrast, local UAE-based couturiers like Michael Cinco staged theatrical, crystal-encrusted gowns that spoke to the upper echelons of couture savoir-faire.
The diversity of talent was astounding: Mumbai’s Krèsha Bajaj reinvented Indian bridal couture with modern zardozi embroidery and playful romance in her debut show, and Croatia’s XD Xenia Design wowed the audience with bold, avant-garde tailoring that remained grounded in sustainable craftsmanship. From Italian labels upcycling heritage textiles into dreamy, nostalgic ensembles to an Indonesian brand like Buttonscarves fusing modest fashion with contemporary flair, DFW’s runways became a living gallery of global craftsmanship. Each collection, whether couture or ready-to-wear, carried a narrative – honoring cultural heritage, celebrating inclusivity, or imagining fashion’s tech-driven future – making the week a showcase of not just style, but also ideas and ideals.
La Moda Italiana: The Italian Day in Dubai
Mid-week, Dubai Fashion Week devoted an entire day to a celebration of Italian fashion excellence – an initiative aptly titled La Moda Italiana Vol. II. On September 3, the runway lights dimmed to a tricolore glow as six of Italy’s most dynamic fashion houses presented back-to-back shows, transforming day three of DFW into “The Italian Day in Dubai.” From Milanese chic to Roman craftsmanship, the Italian designers – including names like Valentina Poltronieri, avant-garde knitwear label Avant Toi, and glamour purveyors Le Twins – brought a dose of authentic Made in Italy flair to the Dubai stage. The evening opened with Valentina Poltronieri’s playful architectural silhouettes and closed with Be Nina’s emotionally charged power dressing, each runway in between eliciting applause for Italian sartorial artistry.
Identity, Status, and High Society in Fashion
Amid the flashes of cameras and whirlwind of runway shows, the Spring/Summer 2026 edition of DFW also offered a reflection on what fashion means to the UAE – and to the broader high-society circles that orbit these events. In a city renowned for its love of opulence and display, fashion is far more than seasonal entertainment; it is an expression of identity and a currency of status. Throughout the week, the who’s who of Dubai and beyond graced the front rows: entrepreneurs, international celebrities, and Middle Eastern royalty turned style icons.
Fashion in the UAE carries unique cultural weight. It reflects a society where modern luxury intertwines with deep-rooted tradition. On the DFW catwalks, one could see this interplay in real time: a traditional abaya reimagined by a contemporary designer into a high-fashion masterpiece, or a jalabiya gown adorned with cutting-edge eco-friendly fabrics. Such creations speak to how the region’s designers are crafting a new sartorial identity – one that honours heritage but is unafraid of cosmopolitan flair. For the style-savvy Emirati elite, wearing a homegrown designer’s piece at a DFW gala isn’t just about looking chic; it’s a nod to national pride and an embrace of the city’s creative evolution.
Dubai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 proved that fashion here is operating on multiple levels. It’s a glamorous spectacle and a serious global industry platform. It’s a meeting ground for East and West, and a launching pad for new ideas. And for the glittering social set sipping champagne under the stars that final night, it was a reminder that in Dubai, fashion is not just about clothes – it’s about storytelling, status, and the ever-evolving identity of a city that has firmly secured its place on the style map.
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